Another trip around Uzbekistan went great. I had a chance to visit Urgench, the capital of Khorezm, and the famous Khiva. Let me start telling you about my tour to Urgench to provide an overview of the city. Was everything good there? I guess yes, except for some moments but the bad things were forgotten easily because of the overflow of new sensations and positive emotions.
Let’s put it this way, I arrived on the day of the gas leak and wished I’d brought a gas mask. But it turned out that gas leaks happen very rarely in town. That day a pipe burst near the station, and two hours later the air was fresh and clean. As a rule, Urgench tours from Tashkent include visiting the surrounding towns with ancient architecture and necropolises, so the destination would be interesting for many.
One day is too few for exploring Urgench as there are too many museums, parks and other worthwhile attractions. I was lucky enough to have a ready-made tour plan, so there was no time wasted searching for the proper places. I could start reviewing the city right away. The Tashkent Urgench train was on the road for about 14 hours and arrived at the station at 6:30 in the morning.
I booked a room at the Avesta 2 hostel for the night, and since there were no single rooms, I had to overpay for a room with one double bed. Sleeping on a wide bed is very comfortable, but it was not cheap at all. However, I was alone, and they didn’t put anyone else in my apartment, as they do in twin rooms.
Note: There are two cities with the same name, one of which is the capital of Khorezm, and the other (Kune Urgench) is located in Turkmenistan, dating back to the first century AD. I was in the new modern Urgench, which is only 400 years old. The Uzbekistan state border separates the two cities.
Several centuries ago, the Great Silk Road ran through Urgench, and today it is known as the administrative center of the Khorezm region with developed infrastructure. Meanwhile, mysterious traces of history are still preserved in the vicinity of the city, otherwise, tours to Urgench would be less popular. There’s a lot to see in the city itself, and I headed to the Shavat Canal first of all, near which the Avesta Park complex was situated.
The huge monument to the book with Zoroastrian scriptures cannot help but impress with its size. It’s 18 meters high, and underneath it, there is a museum of Zoroastrianism with exhibits and objects from the II century BC. A two-storied Amphitheater with a capacity of more than two thousand people occupies the eastern part of the park, intended for festive concerts and celebrations. But on the day of my attendance, it was empty.
The Central Park of Amir Timur is the pride of the city, where you can see exact copies of historical monuments, fortresses and minarets. The park is designed for entertainment, so there is all the necessary infrastructure and a lot of attractions. Green alleys, benches, and fountains are all around.
The city is full of museums, and the treasure trove of cultural heritage is concentrated in the Municipal Museum of Local Lore and Berdakh. It will be interesting even for those who are not particularly fond of the history of Khorezm. I also recommend checking out the Doshkinjon-bobo mausoleum and Al-Beruni memorial complex. These places are related to religion, so they evoke the warmest sensations. If someone is willing to see the remains of past civilizations, they will have to go to out of town. Unfortunately, I didn’t have time.
Urgench trip would be incomplete without Khorezm pilaf. I had heard that it differs from other regions’ pilaf, both in flavor and in the way it is cooked. I was happy to know that there were a few portions left in the National Cuisine Cafe, and the waiter brought one immediately. The pilaf is served with fermented cabbage salad with radish and regular bread. The trick is that in Khorezm pilaf, meat and onions are cooked separately; rice is cooked in another cauldron. Then the ingredients get mixed and drizzled with sesame oil.
The pilaf was nice looking and hearty, but the flavor did not differ from the typical pilaf of other regions. However, the salty tea surprised me greatly: it tasted more like broth. It’s because the water in Urgench is salty and the tea turns out to be specific. For the evening meal I had fried fish in a cafe opposite my hostel. It was delicious! Five kilometres away from the city there flows the great Amu Darya, therefore, fried fish is considered by the locals to be the No. 1 dish. I don’t know how they cook it, but it tastes divine.
If you decide to come to this sunny city, book Urgench hotels in advance as part of your tour. Not because of a lack of free places, but for savings reasons. Early booking reduces the price of accommodation by about 30-40%.