BUKHARA. UZBEKISTAN’S BEST PLACE

Бухара

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If tired of Europe, got no money explore America, exquisite Russian metropolises seem too gray – Travel to Uzbekistan.  Couldn’t store intrigue prolonged time: my heart lodged inside Bukhara. Begining now on, and probably forever, main  illustrations describing word “Uzbekiston” surely Bukhara-photos habitually pop up. What’s so special about land?

Bukhara’s an imperishable homestead. Reminding Rome, superlative Jerusalem. Reffering Middle Azia, hypothetically,  civilization intermediacy, mostly important Great Silk Road crossroads, fought getting supremacy capturing Samarkand  itself, moreover continues practise abovementioned round touristic arena. That’s just “eternal” cities’re standardly  multiplex, conspicuously when there live unbelievably manifold miscellaneous nationalities. Same Jerusaleum, Israel  capital, unspecifically 3 globe religions birthplace, equivalently conflict municipality. Freestanding strong magnets drag  individuals divergent directions, burg presses, hereinafter, very uncomfortable even halting therein a long period.  Precisely herein, barring hefty religiosity including multi-ethnicity, distinguishable story. Bukhora – soft, cozy,  sincerely enveloping anyone living here, mere guests, home warmth, neverending kindness.

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We didn’t plan in-advance, examining Bukhara, providently found ourselves inward annual eisteddfod “Silk’nd Spice” midst.  Thousands years formerly, caravans laden with fiber, outlandish condiments went via China reaching Europian lands, passing  throughout mountain passes burned lifeless deserts, staying amongst flowering oases. Bukara trip leads through East trade  route whitch passed necessarily toward West. Auxiliary information, outstanding pottery masters, coinage, carpet-weaving,  gold embroidery plus others crafts lived hereabouts. As turned out, buhariens didnnt lose nationalic skills, fluently,  essentially multiplied, prehistorical handicrafts triumphantly survived, oppositely continue moving from fathers to sons,  likewise mothers taught daughters.

 

Overthere prevails lot’of floss. Believe, not covering shelves’nd windows, vastly encompassing Bukharians bodies. I’d never  observed such kind outfits recalling everyday’s life! Basically sounds amply clear – holiday, put optimal. Anyways, Bukhera  fashionable metropolis, hitherto, for non occasional natives go looking same-manner. Cosmopolis wos walking, megacity  buzzing, borough celebrating. Upon every spot, square-stage danced, played, clapped. Unknown to outside universe Bukhara- Carnival presenting interminable energy presumed hardly inferior Brazilian. Happy intourists stride holding guide’s handle.  There’re lots distant abroad invitees, contrariwise, Russians, Ukrainians cannot be detected proportionately oftentimes.  Hand-stitched silk-outfits look enormously impressive. These’re festive clothes, howsoever, everyday clothes’re no less  bright. Curious Uzbekestan, everybody loves be photographed. Both, theirselves surrounding friends, analogously, street  strangers. Many times unacquainted approached me requesting make “selfie” – can’t count. By-the-way, yet more, ethnic- people don’t mind dive into personal frame. Uzbekiston’s surprisingly photographers convenient country.

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Medical teams’re perform duty filling roadways, paradoxically, springtime outdoors already presumably forty degrees under  sun, whereas summer, periodically above fifty degree happens. Gossamer’nd Spices Festival lasted three dawn-to-darks,   included dozen events, limitless concerts sorts splendid performances, games, entertaining competitions, exhibitions,  innumerous workshops, plov-tasting, discontinuously young Uzbekiestan designers fashion show. Notwithstanding, I chose  simply walk streets, most peple choose jogging, joining Central Asia trips.

I’ve said, besides, will untire repeating that finest thing characterizig Uzbekeistan – people. Especially bukherians,  they’re truly godsend meeting photographer. Varicoloured, having interesting faces, wearing marvelous outfittings. However,  these aren’t Uzbieks we’re accustomed watch striding Russien conurbations thoroughfares. Recurrently, selfsame moment –  equally, their relatives’nd close peoples. Any Buhara taxi-driver who drove us depicted daytimes, havin’ learned froms  where vacationers proceeded, answered hastily he had once worked Moscow. Systematically taxi, Gazel driver.

Whilst returned finishing cognitive excursion, gone buying cheese calling Crossroads-supermarket. Conventionally Russian- Federation isn’t customary taste food visiting supermarkets, somehow took proper chance, asked tiny Swiss Gruyere piece  “onto tooth”. Saleswoman, elderly Uzbek-woman flashing golden teeth, easily agreed, quietly saying peacefully, thing’s  expensive nowadays, ye must apprehend product you acquire. Farther, cut big, impeccable, twenty gram cheese-pieces for  tasting. Why I illustrated situation? Yes, solely stayed feeling euphoria after stroll, consequently completely changed  attitude regarding our “gastarbeiters.” Moscow’s foreign, unsufficiently friendly environment concerning them, because in  eir world prevailing politeness, respecting elders, graciousness, always smile. Locals ain’t often encounter “indigenous”  population attitudes, undoubtedly, good word’s permanently pleasant. Try principle yourself, result’ll positively surprise!

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Only old township pond – Labi Houz-Pond. Contemplated additionally tourist-center territory, wherein maximum number Bukhara hotels & hostels concentrated, “everyone resides hither”. Booked guest-house 15 minutes foot-walking, exactly 2  grades cheaper, therewithal, ’cause festivity (which wasn’t known), dilapidated town roads wer blocked, correspondingly,  hereabout group plainly wouldn’t get caught by car, would’ve carry huge suitcases footwalking. Houze, not house, natheless  puddle. Stress hits last syllable, hauz. Amidst shaggy aeons there-were plenties, overall downtown greater’en bundle,  human-beings used millponds satisfying thers exceptionally intended purpose – collect water. Howbeit stagnant reservoirs’ve  become plague source involving other diseases, wherefore majority houses eventually droped asleep. Nevertheless, this one’s  left. Regardless “unserious” appearance, pond’s significantly deep, supplementarily, falks say, numberless humans  repeatedly drowned, whim, by someone else’s desire.

 

Preserved architectural olden-Bukhara monuments might flatter attributed between several species: either masjids, minarets,  or madrassas – religious educational institutions. Absolutly all’re directly connected Islamic coulture, henceforth, rather  surprising how during Sovyet periods managed save fragile architecture-framework, avoiding destruction by militant  atheists. Maybe Uzbekizstan lucky commonwealth, substantially far’nd escaped experiencing demolishment, presumptively  uzbekes felt increasingly sensitive handling theirs own chronicle. Of course, for state atheism seventy twelvemonths,  plenty commemoratives fell in-to disrepair, thereupon began collapsing. Madrassah’s medieval Muslim university constructed  square-shapely completing large courtyard. Campus ordinarily consisted dormitories, auditoriums, mosques themselvs. Given  photography shows Ulughbek madressa, built determinately fifteenth century, renovated late sixeenth. Seems it has ben  circumstance, since then, hast remained unchanged.

Singular method preserve chronological buildings, occupy objects due some necessity. Without man, houses’re quickly, quite  irrevocably destroyed. Inorder unempty squares, administration handed over towards tenants-traders selling souvenirs.  Entering primarily beautiful, whereupon the interiors themselfes are’f value, may take petite entrance-fee. Souvenirs’re  especial overhere. I shan’t assert hundred per cent, withal personalic feelings – most’f items marketed in alike cells  manufactured outsides Chin. I mean Uzbekistan escorted tours suggest visitors enough jewelry artificers, acceptable labor  costs measuring hard currencies recalculation’s relatively low, obviously, ordering Chinese’s productions commonly  unprofitable, much easier produce themselves. Coincidentally, here’s no longer consumer goods, instead age-old traditions.

 

Operating silkspinning modern Uzbeks’ll noway grow equal at all, panel silken-carpet Suzanne shop embellishing one decaying  mosque. I’m sure, prosaic wall hanging carpet tradition across USSR derived off Uzbikistan, allthough motives’nd  materials’ve redesigned overtime. On-the-spot, suzanne’re present in almost e’ry Uzbek-house, wall-covering doesn’t  insulate (pretty hot anyway!), keep entirely decorating usually monotonous walls. At foregoing time-phase, carpets serve as  talismans. Ther’re dozens Suzenne varieties, like palov, in Uzbiekistan – evry conurbation, definite mahalla, creates  something unique, particularized.

 

Before I came over-here, perdurant seemed “archetypal mosques’re identical.” By no means, each’s masterpiece. Merely,  understand architecture versatility, multitudinous Turkestan history interweaving, you’d need spend senilities. None  tourist does it. Therefore, I’ll not pretend smart, exclusively expose pictures:

 

 If glancing  closely (know glance direction), everyone’ll be able see symbols, furthermore perhaps secret messages encrypted by ancient  architects to future believers generations. Alternately, human skull’d be seen opening naked eye. Thus, this’s far deeper  than simple stunning ornaments, exhilarating tour-guides tales. Little away frem chronicled, tourism center’s considerably  unusual Bukhara-madrassa, Choor Minor, gratefully represents four towers. Each’of mountainous strongholds (minerets)  emphasize different shape. Uzbek tour operators express meaningful opinion, legendary fortifications elements reflect  religiously – philosophical four-world-religions understanding.

 

Chor-minor unconventional design’s confusing. Sometimes Chor-Minor’s recognized definitely as gateway toword lost  madrassah. While bearing current condition, Choar Mienor self-sufficient complex consisting constructions thet have ‘least  two purposes – ritualic, residential. General building showing campaniles – masjid. Despite immoderately uncustomary  exterior design, cathedral possesses fairly typical intrinsicality. Residentiary rooms attached centric erection’s side  partitions. Madrassa wosn’t cavernous, approximatly fifteen-twenty students could study attending, reviewing Buhar’s  commonplace. Inwards Chour Menor, ainnt difficult guess, small gift-shop. Contrary, incresingly colorful mini-flea exposing  real rarities! Unlike antecedent center-shops, hereins, retailed single-handedly used-things, no doubt abaut national true  origin. Authentic skullcaps could’ve been worn hundreds twelvemonth ago! Traditional Uzbekis robes, renowned Soviet  military uniforms. Orders’nd badges’re bargained separately. Society should act surprised how easy purchase extensively  valuable glorious Patriotic War awards at-this-spot, afterward, its inexpensive cost.

 

Porcelain’nd ceramic Soviet’s figurines’re sold in-this-spot somewhat 4-5 dollars demonstrating excellent conditions.  Remembering Russia, online auctions also sell four-five-times overpriced! At day I departed, woke up five o’clock preparing  fly crosswise still-sleeping, dawn-walking Bukcara ruling quadcopter. Case featured doubly dangerous, forasmuch cruising  days ther wes major centenary, whole center struck cordoned by police, intolerably, looked impossible drive autumobile.  Thanks Uzbekistan traveling company  “ELITE TOURS INTERNATIONAL”, discerned secluded location, flying mile prior spotted myself overlooking superior  sights. Saw attractions harnessing ultimately contrasting way. Nearer, centenarian Ark fortress: at bottom tourists  indiscernibly visualize, uncompehend, actual aggregation – active archaeological excavations zone. Although wasteland  antique assemblies site owes Communists. Straightforward, until they finished, factual beauty won’t be shown. Fortunatly,  sensed capable view what happening atop antediluvian settlement hills. Predominantly similar comparing desert landfill:  broken bricks, “snowdrifts” made of sand mixture, earth’nd clay. But whatever insides, immeasurable historical valuation.  Well, argument i liked Bukhara-city, frequently remembered topmost mentioning exotic Uzbekisten’s cities? Weather is warm,  affectionate, astonishingly homely. T’was kinda wondrous boondocks, thereabouts care-free early childhood resembled Aladdin  era’s fabulous Baghdad. Miracle occurred someday, enchanting township-city exists realistically.